PUMPING!
The waves have been sick; Watergate, Fistral, Penhale, peeler banks everywhere. I’ve just surfed South Fisty and scored some rad little wedgers!
We had our first surf of the Winter at Gwithian on Saturday; there was at least 300 in at Fistral so we drove to “secret dune right” and there were only 3 shredders out there taking turns on perfect chest high gliders.
We grabbed the foamies and surfed empty Cornish perfection for 3 hours.
The Bay of Dreams was firing yesterday; I jumped in at the harbour and started paddling, by the time I got to Western it was double overhead and dredging, I caught 2 close out’s, snapped my leash cord, swam in, swam back out, caught another close out and snapped my leash cord again. I caught 3 waves, did 200 duck dives and swam 1.5km!!!
The chart is already looking good for Ireland again at the end of the month so we’re heading over there next week; waves, mountains and Guinness…EPIC!