“PUMPING” is the word every surfer in Cornwall has been saying recently; the Atlantic Ocean has been a magical ball of energy the last few months, sending solid peelers to every surfable coastline in its vicinity….yee haw!! Spring is now officially here and it’s still “PUMPING.”
I’m surfed out – we’ve just been to Morocco and it was firing 4 to 6ft every day : sick! There’s been waves every day since we got back; Fistral was firing today, 5-6ft offshore and dredging with only 10 of us in. The paddle was a bit savage but apart from that it was epic.
If you haven’t been to Morocco yet then put it on your list because the waves are magical. In fact I would go so far as to say it’s as good as Ireland and that’s one of my favourite places in the world.
We surfed Anchor point in Taghazout one morning, it was glassy and solid 4 to 5ft. The peak is pretty tight and there were about a hundred of us on it; super crowded. I had a couple of waves but kept getting pushed too deep so I paddled a bit wider and waited for the bigger sets.
I’d been sat there for about half an hour chatting to a full blown big wave charger called Gary from the States when a set appeared on the horizon. The whole pack paddled deep but you could see that it might break a bit wide so me and Gary held our position and waited. The first one unloaded on the point and the dude that caught it got stuck behind the peak and it peeled through the line up unridden. Gary looked at me and said, “dude, next wave im going cos they’re all sat way too deep.” He was right, the wave broke on top of the pack and peeled empty right to where we were sat. Gary looked at me, smiled, did two strokes and dropped into a sweet azure blue Atlantic peeler.
The wave behind was even bigger and did the same thing, I was frothing. I put my head down and caught it easily. The wave was perfect, as I bottom turned and looked down the point I was welcomed with the view of an overhead oily clean wall of water peeling for as far as the eye can see…..AMPING
I rode the wave until my legs were jelly, when I kicked out I was nearly in Taghazout village. I knew that was the wave of the day for me so I paddled in, climbed the rocks and leisurly made my way back to the point.
When I got there one of the local dudes was waiting with a piping hot cup of fresh mint tea and honey, lovely. My mate Sufian then drove us back to our hotel and me and my other half went for a Tagine, flat bread, ten cups of coffee and homemade chocolate mouse and cinnamon scones epic….and then the next day we did it all again.
We’ve had loads of Blue Juice PR events recently, it’s the 30th year anniversary, what a sick film. Check out the picture of me and my mate Peter (the silver surfer in the movie) and my mate Mark (Moose in the movie) below.
I surfed Daymer Bay yesterday, it was siiiiick! Fisty was solid 8-10ft so me and the foamie went to the Cornish JBay and scored sweet little 3-4ft peelers, yeehawww!
It’s full speed board packing now we’re off to San Diego in two hours for the Sun Bum World conference…