Anglet, South West France, 4pm
The wave hits the tip of the weather beaten stone groin and as the spray starts to engulf me I turn and feel a cold rush as it drenches me once again.
It’s time to head back to the beach. My clothes are wet through, the tide is coming in, the swell and fresh westerly wind are picking up. I think it’s about to rain. Autumn has arrived in Aquitaine.
I spoke to Guy earlier; we had chatted briefly a few times over the Summer – he was in Spain in June and July and then Portugal. Last time we spoke in September he was boarding a ferry with some of his mates to chase a swell in Northern Scotland.
Today he was at home in the UK…
- what’s up?
- I’m on my way to London, I’ve been sat in a traffic jam for the last half an hour, it’s cool though I’ve got some tunes on and I’m chillin,
- what are you doing in London?
- ah, I got a meeting at the National tennis Centre and then I’m straight back to Cornwall and jumping in the ocean,
- you’ve had a busy few months….
- yea it’s been mental, Im tutoring loads for the LTA, the University programme is pumping and I’ve been on some cool trips, Scotland was epic we scored sick waves in the Orkney islands, that place is magical, totally rad. I’m going to Ireland in a couple of weeks to hangout with my mate Elvis and surf all day every day, the waves will be pumping and he’s made me a new board, I’m so excited, waves Guiness waves and massive skies, wicked and then……..
… and that was it, like lighting the fuse on a firework Guy was off, talking animatedly about surfing and his travels and adventures – there was mention of Sri Lanka again in the New Year and another trip to Scotland and then the traffic must have started moving because as the line went fuzzy and we were about to get cut off I’m sure I heard mention of Baja or was it Bali, I don’t know, it doesn’t really matter it all sounds like so much fun I wish I was going with him – I think next time I might ask if I can.